Argentina

Estancia Arroyo Verde - Bariloche - Patagonia

Arroyo Verde is perhaps the most beautiful estancia in southern Argentina, and one of those truly special places in the world. The remote ranch is embedded in an enchanted valley of wind-and-water sculpted rock spires, minarets, and chimneys, with the scenic Traful River flowing through it. At the western end there are breath-taking views of the crystal clear Lake Traful with its backdrop of lush forests and the white-capped Andes.

The main house is lovely, elegantly appointed and very comfortable, with open views of its manicured gardens and the Patagonian countryside beyond. There is also a remote, romantic guest cabin perched on a cliff overlooking Lake Traful, with one of the most wonderful views imaginable, across the lake to the Andes beyond.

Arroyo Verde, apart from its world famous fly-fishing, is a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts. It offers a perfect setting for horseback riding across the open valley, up the mountains through forests to hidden lakes and caves with Indian paintings, viewing the amazing flight of condors.

There are superb walks or hikes to a crystal lake for water-sports or a lovely beach for relaxing or taking a cold swim. Trout and landlocked salmon fly-fishing is in one of the best rivers in the world: the Traful. Enjoy a sun-downer with the magnificent views from the cabin's terrace, savouring a delicious asado, the typical Argentine barbecue. Unwind in this paradise while sharing the lifestyle of true Argentine ranchers, your elegant and charming hosts, Meme and Maurice Lariviere.

Special notes on Flyfishing:
While much of Argentina offers wonderful opportunities for fly-fishing, Arroyo Verde was singled out by renowned author Charles Gaines in Forbes Magazine as "The Greatest Fishing Lodge in the World. Period." Quite apart from its great concentration of rainbow and brown trout, the Traful is the only river in South America South America holding an important population of landlocked salmon. Fishermen describe the Traful by the size of its catches, the average being 2 to 3 pounds, although every season several fish over 10 pounds are caught, and it is usual to take several in the range of 4 to 6 pounds. Conditions are ideal for dry-fly, nymphs and streamers throughout the November to March season. Ernie Schwiebert's book "Remembrances of Rivers Past" dedicates a chapter called "River of Spirits" to the Traful.

Location: 1,000 miles southwest from Buenos Aires in northwest Patagonia, and a one-hour drive north of Bariloche city, Province of Neuquén, Nahuel Huapi National Park. It is also possible to float the Limay River to get part of the way there. There is a daily two-hour flight from Buenos Aires west to Bariloche on Aerolineas Argentinas, and in one hour one can self drive through lovely scenery to the ranch.

Accommodation: Each of four bedrooms has its own private bathroom. The guest cabin, a few kilometres away in the forest overlooking the lake, has one bedroom and a bathroom).

Activities: There will never be a dull moment. Fly- fish one of finest rivers in the world for trout (rainbows, browns and brookies) and landlocked salmon, horseback riding, hiking, water sports, and bird watching.

I was there in late October, just before the fishing season opened, and the lodge stays open until May, when winter heralds the ski season in Bariloche.